Multi Purpose

Oil

Description

An incredibly versatile oil formula that can be applied to the hair, beards, face and body. This formula contains a range of established and exotic botanical extracts that are high in antioxidant potential and deliver fantastic moisturising, soothing and smoothing action. This formula is hypoallergenic, has a low comedogenic rating and is safe to use with all skin types including sensitive skin.

Hero Ingredients

Sunflower Oil: Moisturising, Emollient, Light

Argan Oil: Protecting, Emollient, Conditioning

Sea Buckthorn Oil: Anti-Inflammatory, Antioxidant

Squalane : Sebum Regulating, Refatting, Emollient

Meadownfoam Oil - Emollient, Nourishing, Sebum Regulating

Chamomile Extract: Soothing, Anti-Inflammatory

Formula

Water Phase

N/A


Oil Phase

Grape Seed Oil                         28.45%

Sweet Almond Oil                    27.4%

Sunflower Oil                           27.4%

Argan Oil                                 5%

Squalene                                   5%

Safflower Oil   2.5%

Rosehip Seed Oil                   1%

Sea Buckthorn Oil                   1%

Hemp Seed Oil                        1%

Blueberry Seed Oil                 0.5%                        

Tocopherol                            0.5%                        

Meadowfoam Seed Oil            0.2%                       

Chamomile CO2 Extract        0.05%           

Cool Down/Final Phase

N/A

Method

A super easy method! Simply combine all ingredients one at a time into an appropriate stainless steel or glass mixing vessel. Hand or mechanically mix slowly until all ingredients are completely uniform. pH is not possible as this is a 100% oil formula.

Tips & Tricks

This is a stable and highly-modifiable formula. It is unscented in its current form but can handle the addition of essential oils or synthetic fragrances at a recommended concentration of up to 1% in total. As this is a 100% oil formula it will not accept water-soluble ingredients without a significant re-work. It will however combine well with most other synthetic or natural oils and some forms of silicone depending on their density.

Aqueous Plumping

Serum

Description

A mid-weight serum infused with Hyaluronic Acid and a range of other powerful humectants, emollients and antioxidants. This serum penetrates deeply into the skin to preserve natural water content whilst also drawing new water molecules into the skin; this softens the skin, plumps upper layers, reduces the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles and imparts a healthy, youthful glow.

Hero Ingredients

Hyaluronic Acid: Humectant, Hygroscopic, Anti-Aging

Panthenol: Soothing, Humectant

Glycerine: Soothing, Humectant, Skin Conditioning, Skin Protecting

Sodium PCA: Humectant, Moisturising

Aquaxyl: Skin Conditioning

Butylene Glycol (Natural): Humectant

Hydroxypropyltrimonium Honey: Humectant, Anti-Aging

Formula

Water Phase

Aqua 82%

Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice 10%

Butyelene Glycol (Natural) 3%

Glycerine 1%

Plantaserve E 1%

Sodium Hyaluronate 0.55%

Panthenol 0.5%

Sodium PCA 0.45%

Aquaxyl 0.3%

Hydroxypropyltrimonium Honey 0.3%

Acai Berry Liquid Extract 0.25%

Grapefruit Liquid Extract 0.25%

Urea 0.15%

Allantoin 0.1%

Potassium Sorbate 0.1%

Citric Acid <0.05%


Oil Phase

N/A

           

Cool Down/Final Phase

N/A

Method

Take a small percentage of Aqua portion, heat to 50 degrees in an appropriate glass vessel and dissolve Allantoin and Urea until completely clear. Reintroduce to remaining Aqua portion along with all other ingredients APART from Sodium Hyaluronate. Stir slowly by hand until uniform. Insert a low shear, over head mixer and mix formula at 500-1000 RPM - gently and slowly sprinkle Sodium Hyaluronate into formula and allow to mix for up to 30 minutes so that no clumps are visible and a clear serum has formed. pH the formula to between 5 and 6 using Citric Acid.

Tips & Tricks

Sodium Hyaluronate/Hyaluronic Acid can be a bit tricky to work with - do not try and mix this ingredient into the Aqua phase by hand; it requires vigorous blending at high speed for at least 30 minutes. We want to avoid the formation of hydrocolloids which can form when Sodium Hyaluronate is introduced to the Aqua phase in big clumps or of it is mixed too slowly. Observe your solution closely and if in any doubt about lumps continue to blend until a clear serum has formed. This is a non-scented formula. Be aware that including a scent in the form of a parfum/fragrance oil or an essential oil will require an emulsifier. To do so dissolve your chosen fragrance(s) in very lightly warmed Polysorbate 20 in a 1:4 ratio (i.e. 1ml fragrance would require 4ml of Polysorbate 20). Blend this mixture into your formula at the same time as the other ingredients. If your mixture remains clear then your emulsifier is doing it’s job correctly - if the mixture remains cloudy then a greater amount of Polysorbate 20 is required. This often requires a trial and error approach as certain oils are ‘easier’ to solubilise than others.

Extreme Hydration

Cream

Description

A simple and very versatile cream with great overall performance. Gently formulated for use on all skin types. Can be used as a daily moisturiser, a night cream, a body therapy lotion and everything in-between.

Hero Ingredients

Kaolin: Cleansing, Sebum Regulating, Brightening

Glycerine: Conditioning, Humectant

Allantoin: Repairing, Protecting, Soothing

Panthenol: Humectant, Soothing

Sodium Hyaluronate: Humectant, Anti-Aging

Formula

Water Phase

Aqua 61.85%

Propanediol 3%

Glycerine 1%

White Kaolin Clay 0.25%

Allantoin 0.25%

Panthenol 0.15%

Potassium Sorbate 0.1%

Sodium Hyaluronate 0.05%


Oil Phase

Grape Seed Oil 20%

Emulsifying Wax -

Cetearyl Alcohol/Ceteareth 20 6%

Mango Butter 1.6%

Tocopherol 0.2%

           

Cool Down/Final Phase

Plantaserve E 1%

Citric Acid <0.05%

Method

Heat Aqua portion along with Potassium Sorbate, Panthenol, Propanediol, Allantoin, Glycerine and Kaolin to 70 degrees under low shear, 500-1000 RPM blending in an appropriate glass vessel. Sprinkle in Sodium Hyaluronate and blend for 10 minutes. In a separate vessel mix and heat Grape Seed Oil, Tocopherol, Mango Butter and Emulsifying Wax to 60 degrees until completely uniform and melted. Introduce this to  Aqua phase and blend at heat for 10 minutes. Remove heat source and continue blending at 500-1000 RPM for up to 30 minutes as solution cools. When cooled below 40 degrees introduce Plantaserve E and pH to 5.5-6.0 with Citric Acid.

Tips & Tricks

This recipe is highly modifiable and the methods can be followed even with a large number of changes providing your percentages stay largely consistent. For example, while this recipe contains 20% of one type of carrier oil, you can split this 20% across multiple different oil types for different end textures and user benefits. You can also sacrifice a small percentage of Aqua for other water-soluble actives like Botanical Extracts. This recipe also used one specific kind of Emulsifying Wax - there are loads of different forms of Emulsifying Waxes on the market and can lead to substantial differences in the end product so you can tailor your choice depending on what you want the end cream to feel like and achieve.

Sugar Scrub

Exfoliator

Description

A straight forward, effective and 100% natural scrub that relies on a delicate blend of exfoliating sugar, plant butters and botanical oils.

Hero Ingredients

Sucrose: Exfoliating

Jojoba Oil: Nourishing, Skin Conditioning, Moisturising

Shea Butter: Skin Conditioning, Moisturising

Evening Primrose Oil: Emollient, Moisturising

Tocopherol: Antioxidant, Stabilising, Moisturising

Formula

Water Phase

N/A


Oil Phase

Grape Seed Oil 38%

Shea Butter 10%

Jojoba Oil 4.5%

Evening Primrose Oil 3%

Candelilla Wax 1.5%

Castor Oil 1%

Tocopherol 0.75%

           

Cool Down/Final Phase

Sucrose 41.25%

Method

Heat all ingredients other than Sucrose in an appropriate glass vessel. Candelilla Wax has a fairly high melting point so will need temperatures of at least 65 degrees to fully dissolve. Stir slowly until all ingredients are fully melted and uniform. Remove heat source and mechanically (or by hand) mix in Sucrose. The introduction of Sucrose will help cool the formula and it will thicken quickly. Once starting to thicken introduce your chosen fragrance/essential oils if required and continue to mix until cool. pH is not possible as this is an oil/butter formula.

Tips & Tricks

Aside from Sucrose, this is a 100% oil/lipid formula so it accepts most fragrance oils and essential oils. To include fragrance, simply blend in AFTER sucrose has been added when the mixture has cooled below 45 degrees. Recommended fragrance level is 0.5%. To adjust the thickness of this formula, play around with the Butter, Oil and Wax content. For a looser scrub, I suggest removing Candelilla Wax and replacing the % with a soft Butter like Mango or increase the existing Shea Butter content. You can also experiment with different kinds of butters and oils to change the texture, colour and performance. For example, using Rosehip Oil in place of Evening Primrose Oil will impart a deep orange to the formula.

Time Reversal

Elixir (Oil)

Description

A light oil-based serum ‘elixir’ with carefully selected noncomedogenic botanical oils, lipid soluble antioxidants and skin nourishing vitamins including C and E as well as newer to market ingredients including SepiLift (Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline) which reduces the appearance of fine lines and winkles by 32% in comparison to placebo.

Hero Ingredients

Squalane: Sebum Regulating, Emollient, Conditioning

Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate: Antioxidant, Brightening

SepiLift: Conditioning, Plumping, Firming

Seabuckthorn Oil: Antixoidant, Protecting, Conditioning

Meadowfoam Seed Oil: Conditioning

Formula

Water Phase

N/A


Oil Phase

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride 41.7%

Grape Seed Oil 40%

Squalane (Olive) 8%

Jojoba Oil 5%

Rosehip Oil 1%

Evening Primrose Oil 1%

Meadowfoam Seed Oil 1%

Ascrobyl Tetraisopalmitate 1%

Tocopherol 0.5%

Seabuckthorn Oil 0.5%

SepiLift (Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline) 0.3%

           

Cool Down/Final Phase

N/A

Method

Heat Grape Seed Oil to 45 degrees and introduce SepiLift (Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline). This ingredient appears as a white powder and when gently stirred into lightly warmed oil, will completely dissolve. After this has dissolved, introduce all other ingredients while slowly blending or hand mixing.

Tips & Tricks

This is a 100% oil/lipid formula so it accepts most fragrance oils and essential oils. To include fragrances and/or essential oils simply blend or hand mix in as the final addition. Recommended fragrance level is 0.5%. Essential oils which are known for their high anti-inflammatory action and antioxidant potential (both of which help fight the signs of aging) include Sandalwood, Lemon, Lavender, Clary Sage, Rosemary and Ylang Ylang.

Unique Foaming

Bath & Shower Oil

Description

This is an interesting formula that creates a rich foaming and cleansing oil which are gradually increasing in popularity with brands due to the unique skin feel and texture. Additionally, it also fills the role of a water-to-milk cleanser as contact with water leads to self-emulsification and a milk like appearance to the formula. It looks great and performs very well! This formula is highly versatile and can be utilised as a facial cleanser, a general shower oil or a relaxing foaming bubble bath. It relies on a rarely used blend of oil-soluble surfactants (Lumorol K 5229) for it’s foaming and cleansing effect coupled with a mixture of botanical oils and extracts.

Hero Ingredients


Jojoba Seed Oil: Emollient, Skin Conditioning

Apricot Kernel Oil: Skin Conditioning, Moisturising

Prickly Pear Seed Oil: Emollient, Antioxidant

Arnica Infused Sunflower Oil: Anti-Inflamamtory, Skin Conditioning

Tocopherol (Vitamin E): Antioxidant

Formula

Water Phase

N/A


Oil Phase

Lumorol K 5229 40% (Increase for greater lather)

Grapeseed Oil 22.25%

Sweet Almond Oil 22.25%

Jojoba Oil 5%

Apricot Kernel Oil 5%

Prickly Pear Seed Oil 2%

Arnica Infused Sunflower Oil 2%

Parfum or Essential Oil(s) 1%

Tocopherol (Vitamin E) 0.5%

Cool Down/Final Phase

N/A

Method

There is no heating required for this formula. Simply mix all ingredients together into a single appropriate vessel either by hand or wiht a low shear overhead mixer. Low shear is important as high shear will generate lather in the mixer!

Tips & Tricks

This is a super straightforward formula so no tricks necessary. Like most 100% oil-soluble formulas, this formula handles a range of parfums, fragrances and essential oils very well. Recommended scent inclusion level at a total of 1%.

Hydrating & Soothing

Up Cycled Gel

Description

A unique gel formula containing potent hydrating and soothing actives with a focus on up-cycled materials. This moisturising gel relies in the popular gelling polymer Aristoflex AVS as well as a range of up cycled actives including Gin Toniq and Barely Toniq supplied by Upcycle Beauty as well as Pentylene Glycol supplied by Bay House Aromatics.

Hero Ingredients


Gin Toniq: Up Cycled, Humectant

Barley Toniq: Up Cycled, Humectant, Soothing, Anti-Irritant

Pentylene Glycol: Up Cycled, Emollient, Humectant

Glycerine: Humectant, Skin Conditioning

Panthenol: Soothing

Formula

Water Phase

Aqua 79.4%

Pentylene Glycol (Natural) 8%

Glycerine 6%

Gin Toniq 2%

Barley Toniq 1.5%

Aristoflex AVS 1%

Plantaserve E 1%

Panthenol 1%

Citric Acid <0.1%


Oil Phase

N/A

Cool Down/Final Phase

N/A

Method

There is no heating required for this formula although gentle heating can increased the speed of the process. Dissolve all ingredients aside from Citric Acid and Aristoflex AVS in Aqua portion and blend until completely dissolved. Under blending introduce Aristoflex AVS tot he formula by slowly sprinkle onto formula surface. Blend until a completely smooth, uniform and thick gel has formed. pH to between 5.0 and 5.5 with Citric Acid.

Tips & Tricks

This formula can handle a small proportion of oils or oil-soluble components which will change the opacity and performance of the product. Good ester and emollient choices would be Squalane, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate and Caprylic/Capric Triglycerides. Do not exceed 4% total oil content.

Gentle Foaming

Cleanser

Description

An aqueous cleanser formulated with gentle ingredients for daily cleansing action. Relies on plant-derived surfactants and cleansing agents (sulphate free). This is a thin liquid formula and is ONLY compatible with Foaming Pump Heads. Examples here. With this style of Pump Head, the head itself agitates the formula as it exits the bottle resulting in a delightful foam being dispensed rather than a liquid or gel. This can be particularly novel if colourants as used as, for example, a red liquid in bottle, is transformed into a pink/red foam when dispensed.

Hero Ingredients


Aloe Vera Leaf Juice: Soothing, Anti-Inflammatory

Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate: Cleansing, Antioxidant

Butylene Glycol: Natural Version, Emollient, Humectant

Glycerine: Humectant, Skin Conditioning

Panthenol: Soothing

Formula

Water Phase

Aqua Up to 100.00

Decyl Glucoside (Liquid 50% Active) 15.00%

Coco Glucoside (Liquid 50% Active) 15.00%

Aloe Vera Leaf Juice (1:1 Strength) 10.00%

Orange Hydrosol (Alcohol Free) 10.00%

Glycerine 10%

Butylene Glycol (Natural) 5%

Plantaserve E 1%

Panthenol 0.5%

Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate 0.5%

Citric Acid <0.2%


Oil Phase

N/A

Cool Down/Final Phase

N/A

Method

Very simple method! Under slow mechanical and or manual mixing, dissolve Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate fully into Aqua. When fully dissolved and uniform, introduce all other ingredients one at a time until each is fully dissolved. I tend to include surfactants (Decyl & Coco Glucoside) last as stirring can create lather. pH balance to a 6-7 range with Citric Acid directly or using a 50/50 Aqua/Citric Acid solution.

Tips & Tricks

Highly customisable with water-soluble actives and materials including dyes and colourants. This formula example is not scented with essential oils or parfums directly as it is designed for sensitive skin; light scent can be obtained by using an appropriate Floral Water/Hydrolat/Hydrosol. This formula uses a Orange Hydrosol as an example. Alter the % of Surfactants, Decyl Glucoside and Coco Glucoside, to alter lather and foam behaviour - note that these are alkaline substances and additional citric acid will be required for pH balancing. Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate is a highly effective and more stable form of Ascorbic Acid. Unlike Ascorbic Acid, it requires a neutral environment for long term stability. Aim for a formula pH of 6-7.

Earth Mineral

Powder Cleanser

Description

A highly naturally-derived, clay/mineral-based powder that turns into a cleansing foaming scrub when introduced to water. A fantastic option for brands focussed on high-active-content formulas or those entirely without water in their formulas. Contains a range of earth clays, minerals, starches and gentle cleansing agents.

Hero Ingredients


Rice Starch: Soothing, Nourishing, Absorbent

Pumice (Micro Fine): Exfoliating, Cleansing

Bentonite: Absorbent, Astringent

Arginine: Antioxidant, Collagen Stimulating

Grape Seed Extract Powder: Antioxidant, Anti-Inflammatory

Cucumber Powder: Soothing, Calming, Brightening

Dimethyl Sulphone (MSM): Collagen Stimulating

Formula

Powder Phase

Corn Starch Up to 100.00

Pumice (Super Fine). 15.00%

Bentonite Clay 15.00%

Kaolin (White) Clay 15.00%

Disodium Lauryl Sulfosuccinate 10.00%

Sodium Lauryl Sulfoacetate 5.00%

Rice Starch 2.50%

(L) Arginine 0.50%

Dimethyl Sulphone (MSM) 0.25%

Citric Acid 0.20%

Hydroxyethylcellulose 0.10%

Cucumber Powder 0.10%

Grape Seed Extract Powder 0.05%


Oil Phase

N/A

Cool Down/Final Phase

N/A

Method

Introduce all ingredients to mixing vessel. Mix thoroughly, ideally with a mechanical mixer designed for powders. At smaller volume, this powder can be mixed effectively by rolling and inverting small barrels or containers that contain the ingredients for 10-20 minutes, checking for a full mix prior to potting.

Tips & Tricks

This formula is highly customisable. Clay and starch portions can be swapped for any other clays and starches for different, textures colours and performance. The main thing to maintain is the surfactant level which, at it’s current %, generates a decent and effective lather without being overtly skin drying.

Anti Inflammatory

Toner

Description

A light aqueous toner with powerful anti-inflammatory actives and a small amount of the exfoliating/humectant, lactic acid. Suitably for every day use. Improves skin tone and helps to combat sub-clinical inflammation and redness.

Hero Ingredients

Glycerine: Humectant

Niacinamide: Smoothing

Aloe Vera Leaf Juice: Soothing, Anti-Inflammatory

Lavender Hydrosol: Perfuming, Soothing, Anti-Inflammatory

Dipotassium Glycyrrhizinate: Anti-Inflammatory, Calming

Green Tea Leaf Extract: Astringent, Anti-Inflammatory

Formula

Aqua Phase

Aqua Up to 100.00

Aloe Vera Leaf Juice (1:1 Strength) 5.00%

Lavender Hydrosol (Alcohol Free) 5.00%

Glycerine 3.00%

Propanediol (Natural) 3.00%

Niacinamide 1.00%

Plantaserve E 1.00%

Dipotassium Glycyrrhizinate 0.50%

Green Tea Leaf Extract 0.05%


Oil Phase

Polysorbate 80 2.00%

Rosemary Antioxidant (CO2 Extract) 0.05%

Chamomile (CO2 Extract) 0.05%

Cool Down/Final Phase

Lactic Acid (80% Standard) <0.10%

Method

Heat Aqua portion to 30-40 degrees and under gentle blending introduce all Aqua phase ingredients. Blend for up to 20 minutes or until all ingredients are fully incorporated. In a separate vessel, gently but thoroughly mix Oil Phase ingredients then introduce slowly under continue blending to Aqua Phase. Blend for 10 minutes then pH to 4.80-5.40 with Lactic Acid (80 Standard)

Tips & Tricks

There is ample opportunity to modify this toner formula. More expensive, patented or otherwise different water-soluble ingredients can be added to the Aqua Phase. Glycerine and Propanediol can be adjusted to alter the humectant quality and thickness of the toner. Additional small Oil Phase actives can be introduce - emulsifying Polysorbate 80 may need to be increased as a result. To introduce Parfums/Essential Oils to this formula, pre-mix with Polysorbate 20 and slowly add to Aqua Phase under blending. Typically a 5:1 ratio is needed in favour of Polysorbate 20.

Butter & Coconut
Melt

Description

A super simple and highly effective butter moisturiser. This is a multipurpose balm made primarily with Organic Coconut Oil and small butter portion. Jam packed with naturally occurring vitamins, minerals and humectant acids. A fantastic option for sensitive skin including babies and those with eczema.

Hero Ingredients

Coconut Oil: Emollient, Anti Inflammatory

Shea Butter: Emollient, Moisturising, Protecting

Mango Butter: Emollient, Soothing

Formula

Aqua Phase

N/A


Oil Phase

Coconut Oil 90.00%

Shea Butter 5.00%

Mango Butter 5.00%

Cool Down/Final Phase

N/A

Method

Heat all ingredients together in an appropriate vessel until melted (around 50 degrees) and stir gently until uniform. Pour into pots and allow to cool. Formula will harden into a balm at Room Temperature. That’s it!

Tips & Tricks

Although Coconut Oil is an oil, it presents as a solid at Room Temperature but melts almost instantly to the touch. As such, this formula can be temperature sensitive - in warmer environments in may liquify. To adjust temperature tolerance, consider using a higher percentage of butters, ‘harder’ butter like Cocoa Butter or even introducing small amounts of waxes.

DISCLAIMER

These formulas are offered in good faith and are to serve as inspiration only. They can be used, modified, produced and recreated by anyone. These formulas are not registered in the UK or Europe and have not been specifically tested to cosmetic standards. As such they are not considered Market Ready. Tyr Formulations accepts no liability of any kind for use of these formulas whether used as intended or not.

If you would like to know more about these formulas or are interested in a unique formula like these, please contact me directly.

Alternatively, Market Ready Formulas can be purchased in digital format on our store here.