Glossary of Cosmetic Terms
This is a short Glossary of Cosmetic Terms which includes key terms used throughout the industry, mainly with a focus on ingredients functional or chemical categories with some common individual ingredients as well. These terms are used frequently in the industry, and by myself on this site, so hopefully this Glossary proves useful to individuals in the industry already and those looking to step into it.
ACID
A molecule which can donate a proton or accept and electron pair in reactions. In cosmetics, a huge number of acids are used and maybe used as Chelators or exfoliating agents as their low pH helps remove dead or damage skin. Some also have skin brightening properties.
Example(s): Alpha Hydroxy Acids (Glycolic Acid, Lactic Acid), Salicylic Acid, Tranexamic Acid.
ALCOHOL
A colourless, flammable liquid produced from the natural fermentation of sugars. Used as a solvent and drying agent. Often added to avoid misuse but may be a solvent or extraction fluid for another ingredient.
Example(s): Ethyl Alcohol, Denatured Alcohol, Isopropanol.
ALKALINE
A substance which has a Potential Hydrogen (PH) value more than 7 (out of a 14 point scale). Substances which are alkaline can also be called ‘basic’ and are the opposite of ‘acidic’ substances.
Example(s): Ethyl Alcohol, Denatured Alcohol, Isopropanol.
ALPHA HYDROXY ACID(S)
Like most acids, they interfere with skin binding so are excellent chemical exfoliators as they help strip away dead or dying skin cells. Often found in cleansing products. Fruit derived AHAs are common in the industry and include a mix of fruit extracts with high AHA content rather than just isolated AHAs.
Example(s): Glycolic Acid, Lactic Acid, Citric Acid, Malic Acid, Tartaric Acid.
ANNHYDROUS
A substance, especially a crystalline compound, containing no water.
Example(s): A 100% lipid formula i.e. a face oil, Anhydrous Citric Acid.
ANTIOXIDANT
A substance that inhibits oxidation, especially one that removes damaging oxidising agents which can spoil food and other products like cosmetics.
Examples(s): Vitamin E (Tocopherol), Vitamin C (Ascorbic Acid).
ANTIPRURITIC
A drug or ingredients used to relieve skin itching. Often found in topical eczema treatments.
Example(s): Menthol, Antihistamines, Lidocaine, Capsaicin
ANTI-INFLAMMATORY
An ingredient or drug used to reduce inflammation which is typically the reddening and swelling of a particular area in response to trauma or disease which may or may not be painful. Generally speaking, inflammation is the immune systems response to an irritant. Many ingredients in cosmetics have anti-inflammatory properties.
Examples(s): Vitamin B3 (Niacinamide), Aloe Vera Extract, Sea Buckthorn Oil, Cannabidiol, Green Tea Extract, Chamomile Extract
ASTRINGENT
An ingredient that causes the contraction of skin cells and pores. Astringent igredients are often used in skin care products that aim to control oil production and improve pore health.
Example(s): Potassium Alum, Witch Hazel, Apple Cider Vinegar, Alcohol
BETA HYDROXY ACID(S)
A family of acids with exfoliating effect. Often found in cleansing-type products. Thought to penetrate more deeply into the skin then Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs). May be more suitable for oily skin the AHAs.
Example(s): Salicylic Acid
BLACKHEAD
A common skin issue or blemish that results when sebum (a natural face oil) cannot drain properly through a blocked pore by bacteria, dead cells or environmental pollutants.
Example(s): N/A
BROAD SPECTRUM
A term used in both sunscreens; referring to agents that protect broadly against UV rays as they protect against both UVA and UVB rays and also refers to preservatives that combat multiple types of microbiological contaminants simultaneously.
Example(s): Preservatives - Phenoxyethanol, Sunscreen: Oxybenzone
CERAMIDES
A naturally occurring family of fats that form part of sebum. They are important moisturising and protecting/barrier factors in the skin.
Example(s): Ceramide 1, Ceramide 3
CHELATOR
A compound containing a ligand bonded to a central metal atom at two or more points. Chelating agents are used in cosmetics to bind with metal ions (or other metallic compounds) and stop them from negatively interfering with the formula. Chelators are important in maintaining the stability and efficacy of cosmetics.
Example(s): Sodium Phytate, Citric Acid, EDTA
CPSR
CPSR stands for Cosmetic Product Safety Report. A CPSR is a report on a specific end formula/product that assess each ingredient and its inclusion percentage and then concludes the safety of the formula/product. It is a mandatory document, sometimes written as part of a PIF (Product Information File) and usually provided by the final manufacturer of the product although independent technicians can also create these documents.
Examples(s): N/A
ECZEMA
A common, non contagious and long-term (chronic) skin condition with multiple forms, severities and triggers. Typically characterised by itchy, red and inflamed skin patches, usually on joints like the elbows and knees. May be triggered by fragrances, hash chemicals, certain foods and susceptibly appears to be genetic.
Example(s): Atopic Dermatitis
EMOLLIENT
An emollient is an ingredient which softens and soothes the skin. They typically have good spreadability and add a pleasant texture and skin feel to a formulation. Emollients vary wildly in their chemistry and include butters, petroleamum derivatives like parrafin and various synthetic and plant oils.
Example(s): Glycerin, Mineral Oil, Lanolin, Coconut Oil, Cocoa Butter, Paraffin, Petrolatum.
EMULSIFIER
An emulsifier is any ingredient which helps any ‘unlike’ ingredients mix and stay together in an emulsion. For example, under normal circumstances, water and oil (lipids) don’t mix but the addition of an appropriate emulsifier allows the creation of an emulsion. Creams and lotions are common emulsions that are typically made from water, oil(s) and emulsifiers.
Example(s): Cetearyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate, Lecithin, Cetearyl Olivate.
ENZYME
A biological substance which acts as a catalysts to bring about a specific biochemical reaction. In cosmetics, most enzymes are gentle fruit-derived enzymes from fruits like papaya and pineapple which gentle break down proteins of damaged or dead skin, enoucraging new growth. Found in exfoliating and cleansing products.
Example(s): Papain, Bromelain
FATTY ACIDS/FATTY ALCOHOLS
These compounds are typically found in plant and animal lipid (fat/oil) extracts. They are very useful as emollients, provide good spreadability and enhance texture in many cosmetics.
Examples: Glycerides, Sterols, Phospholipids
FRAGRANCE
A generic term often used interchangeably with Parfum. Fragrances can be naturally derived i.e. from essential oils, synthetic or a blend of the two. Fragrances may be I.P protected by brands and only allergen components of a fragrance need to be legally listed on product labels. Fragrances are one of the most common causes of allergic reactions to skin care products and there has been a large boom in the fragrance-free category, especially synthetic and alcohol-containing fragrances.
Example(s): N/A
FORMULATION
The action of creating or preparing something; a material or mixture prepared according to a formula. A formulation or formula is a written sequence of ingredients, similar to a recipe, usually specifying the amount of ingredients as a weight or a percentage, that when combined in the right way, create an end product.
Examples(s): N/A
GROWTH FACTOR
Peptide signalling molecules that stimulate cellular growth at their target site. Some companies incorporate growth factors into skin care products to encourage skin rejuvenation.
Example(s): Epidermal Growth Factor, Transforming Growth Factor Alpha
GUM
Gums come in a variety of forms and are used to make gels and serums as well as thicken or stabilise no-gel products like creams, washes and shampoos. They are a huge class of ingreidents and range from 100% natural like Xanthan Gum to 100% synthetic like Polyacryalte Crosspolymer-6 (SepiMax Zen). They have different properties, strengths and weaknesses and may be used alone or in combination with other gums for improved performance.
Examples: Carbomer, Xanthan Gum, Cellulose Gum, Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6, Guar Gum, Locust Bean Gum
HOMOGENISE
Homogenising a substance means make it ‘uniform’ or ‘similar; i.e. it is blended in such a way that no bits or random textures are left, just smooth, consistent texture throughout the substance. A homogeniser is a specific kind of cosmetic blender that is very good and mixing substances thoroughly into a uniform end point. For example, an important step when making a cream is homogenisation which turns many disparate ingredients like butters, actives, water and preservatives into a soft, consistent cream.
Example(s): N/A
HUMECTANT
Any ingredient which is used to reduce the loss of moisture. While humectants are almost always found in moisturising products, humectants are technically moisturisers. A moisturisers will introduce new moisturise to the skin, whereas a humectant ingredients helps trap new moisture or existing moisture at the skin to promote longer term hydration.
Examples(s): Glycerin, Propylene Glycol, Hylauronic Acid, Urea, Panthenol, Sorbitol, Mel (Honey), Aloe Vera.
HYDROGEL
A type of skincare product usually made with polymers and gums to form a mask like sheet that sits on the skin and absorbs slowly over time to improve appearance and hydration.
Example(s): N/A
HYDROPHILIC
Hydrophilic substances are ones which are attracted to water as can be deduced from the description ‘hydro’ meaning water and ‘philic’ meaning loving. Starch and other hydrophilic substances are often used in deodorant or other products where water absorption is an important function.
Example(s): Starch, Cellulose, Salt, Sugar
HYGROSCOPIC
Hygroscopic substances are interesting materials which absorb many times their weight in water either from the atmosphere or through direct contact. Probably the most famous example of hygroscope in cosmetics is hyaluronic acid which can hold up to 1000 times it’s weight in water hence why it is such a good plumping agent. Many cosmetic gums also use the principle to form a gel-like structure when exposed to water.
Example(s): Hyaluronic Acid, Sodium Hyaluronate
HYPERPIGMENTATION
A darkening of the skin triggered by UV light, hormonal signalling, medications and wounds. Many brightening or lightning products aim to blend or balance this colouration.
Example(s): N/A
L.E.D
A Light Emitting Diode produces a narrow wavelength of light with low power draw. Light therapy for skin has exploded in popularity and coupled with specially created skin care products to boost effect, facial LED masks and therapies are currently all the rage. Many companies such as Upgrad’d and Omnilux specialise in the LED skin therapy industry.
Example(s): N/A
LIPIDS
Lipids are organic compounds that are composed from fatty acids or their derivatives, are insoluble in water but soluble in organic solvents. They include a huge variety of natural oils, butters and waxes. The term lipid may sometimes be used interchangeably with the term ‘fat’.
Example(s): Argan Oil, Shea Butter, Candelilla Wax
LIPOPHILIC
A lipophilic material is ‘lipid-loving’ and therefore attracted to lipids. If a substance is lipophilic then it is much easier to dissolve it in a lipid in comparison to water.
Example(s): MCT - Medium Chain Triglycerides, Cholesterol, Vitamin D, Vitamin E.
MACERATED
Macerating something means to soften something by soaking it in liquid. In cosmetics, some ingredients are macerated into something else to help extract beneficial compounds for example, macerating chamomile flowers with sunflower oil to create a chamomile infused sunflower oil that can then be used during formulation.
Example(s): N/A
MICELLAR
A ‘micelle’ is an aggregate of molecules in a colloidal solution. So for example, a micellar cleanser will include cleansing ingredients that have an inherent tendency to group together into cleansing spheres that are dispersed and suspended in water.
Example(s): N/A
MICROBIOME
Microbiome refers to the collective microorganisms in a particular environment. Your skin microbiome includes commensal bacteria such as Dermabacter, Corynebacterium and many other species. Your skin microbiome evolves overtime.
Example(s): N/A
MOQ
MOQ refers to Minimum Order Quantity. This is a common term used by manufacturers in the industry and indicates the lowest amount of one product that can be ordered. The MOQ varies enormously, usually depending on the size of the manufacturer. Small batch manufacturers may have an MOQ of 250 units whereas large contract manufacturers may have a started order volume or MOQ in the tens of thousands.
Example(s): N/A
NATURAL
Natural cosmetics contain a large number of naturally sourced ingredients but the phrase is poorly policed and is often used interchangeably with Naturally-Derived. The formulation goal of natural products is to avoid as many synthetic ingredients as possible while relying on ingredients like plant oils, botanical extracts and butters.
Example(s): N/A
OCCLUSIVES
Thick and heavy substances which form a barrier and slow the loss of water via evaporation from the skin. Vaseline is a very well know occlusive product.
Example(s): Petrolatum, Paraffin, Certain Waxes
PARABENS
A popular class of preservatives that protects cosmetic and personal care product formualtions from a range of microorganisms including fungi and bacteria. Considered safe when used at low levels but there are concerns about estrogenic activity. There is a concerted move to use replacements for parabens in the UK beauty and personal care industry.
Example(s): Methylparaben
PEPTIDE
Peptides are short chains of amino acids which are used to build proteins like collagen and elastin. Peptides are most commonly seen in anti-aging formulations as they are thought to improve endogenous collagen production which naturally decreases with age and leads to wrinkles and lines. Some of the most famous anti-aging peptide mixes include Argireline and Matrixyl 3000.
Example(s): Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7.
PH
A figure from 1-14 expressing the alkalinity or acidity of a solution on a logarithmic scale in which 7 is neutral, 1 is extremely acidic and 14 is extremely alkaline. pH is ultimately an expression of hydrogen ion concentration in a solution. You can technically only measure pH in an aqueous (water-containing) solution so pure oil formulations do not have a pH value.
Example(s): N/A
PIF
PIF stands for Product Information File. This is an important product file that contains a complete summary of the product including it intended use, a description of physical characteristics, relevant warnings, the INCI, the formula, safety assessment and may also contain other information such as a method of manufacture. Formulators typically generate this for each product they create and a manufacturer will hold a PIF file, which they keep updated, for every product they produce. Sometimes a CPSR (Cosmetic Product Safety Report) is included as a section in a PIF or it may exist as its own technical document.
Example(s): N/A
PRESERVATIVE
A natural or synthetic ingredient that is added to products to prevent them from spoiling. They usually have to be used in combination as preservatives are usually effective against one class of microbe i.e. yeast, mould, bacteria. Effectively preserving a product often means combining different preservatives that have action against all potential contaminations when used together.
Example(s): Parabens (e.g. Methylparaben), Glycol Ethers (e.g. Phenoxyethanol), Acids (e.g. Sorbic Acid).
PROBIOTICS
Useful and beneficial bacterial cultures that are often eaten in yoghurts but can be applied to the skin to help improve skin health, usually through anti-inflammatory action.
Example(s): Lactobacillus, Nitrosomonas
RESPONSIBLE PERSON (RP)
A legal or natural person who ensures the compliance of each cosmetic product in the UK or EU market with relevant obligations as set forth in Article 4 of Regulation EC No 1223/2009. The RP is usually but not always associated with the product manufacturer. Some companies offer a separate RP service where they act as a brands RP. Some brands have their own RP in-house who fills this role. An independent formula is rarely the RP but can be if they offer this service. Typically the RP is someone with a good understanding of cosmetic regulation for the area in which the products are being sold but they do not have to be a high-level expert or a cosmetic scientist.
Example(s): N/A
RETINOIDS
A general term used to describe all Vitamin A derivatives. They have very different levels of potency and effect.
Example(s): Retinol, Retinaldehyde, Retinyl Palmitate
SOLUBILISER
A solubiliser is a surfactant that dissolves completely in water and dissolves somewhat in oil. They are designed to solubilise oil into water. A common use example would be using the solubiliser Polysorbate 20 to allow a small percentage of essential oils to be incorporated fully into water.
Example(s): Polysorbates, Alcohol, Polyglyceryls, Butylene Glycol, Polyethylene Glycols
SOLVENT
A solvent is a material that is able to dissolve other substances. The most common solvent in cosmetics is Aqua (water).
Example(s): Water, Alcohol, Propylene Glycol, Propanediol, Silicones
STABILITY
Stability refers to how stable a cosmetic formulation is. Cosmetics are usually tested in a variety of environments to make sure the formula holds up to environmental stressors which include microbe contamination, sustained heat, sustained cooling, physical shaking and light exposure. A stable formula is one which maintains its function and appearance after being tested against the stressors above and maybe more depending on the type of product.
Example(s): N/A
SURFACTANT
The term surfactant is short for surface active agent. These ingredients degrease and emulsify oils, fats and suspend dirt particles allowing them to be washed away. There are a wide range of surfactants some of which are skin safe and used extensively in cosmetics whereas others are effective but more harsh and find use in the detergent and chemical industry. Many surfactants produce foam when mixed with water and agitated. Petroleum remains the most popular source of surfactants but there is a growing group of natural surfactants derived from oils, fatty alcohols and sugars.
Example(s): Anionic Surfactants, Ampholytic Surfactants, Non-Ionic Surfactants
SULPHATES
Sulphates are a group of ingredients primarily used as cleansing agents in skin-care and hair care products. Most function as lather/foam producing surfactants. They provide the main cleansing and foaming action in products such as body washes and shampoos. Sulphates are very effective but for sensitive skin and hair they can have a drying effect which has lead to the growth of the sulphate-free class of products.
Example(s): Sodium Laureth Sulphate, Sodium Lauryl Sulphate.
VISCOSITY
Viscosity is the measure of the internal flow resistance of a fluid but put simply it can be thought of as a measure of liquid thickness. For example, a hair gel would be described as much more (thick) viscous than ketchup and ketchup is more viscous than water.
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